Home Sweet Home

A Homeowners Blog, Décor and Gardening, Homeware and Lifestyle

Archive for February, 2008


Extra lights

extra lights installationextra lights installation

If you wish to fit extra lights, make a simple check to ensure that the loading will not be too great. On a domestic lighting circuit the loading must not exceed 1200 watts.

To determine the loading you must first find out which lights are on the circuit. So switch on all the lights in your home, then switch off the mains at the consumer unit, and remove a lighting fuse. Restore the power and check which lights do not light up: these are all on the same circuit. Repeat with the second lighting fuse, then the third, until you have plotted all the lighting circuits in your home. (more…)

When Things Go Wrong

Not much should go wrong with a modern electrical system. The most common fault is that the room light will not work when you turn on the wall switch. Usually, the fault is a defective bulb. Turn off the wall switch while you change it.

Occasionally, however, the bulb will not have been at fault. In that case check whether other lights in the same and adjacent rooms - those likely to be on the same circuit - are working. If all are out, the trouble is probably a blown fuse.

If none of the lights in the house works, look outside to make sure that the whole neighborhood does not have a power failure. (more…)

Fact file Tips on Buying Lights

  • Foresee any installation requirements. For example, some lighting requires transformers that need to be either hidden or contained, and many wall lights will need to have wiring fished into the wall and then covered over with sheetrock or plaster.
  • Decide on whether you want the light source to be either a visible feature or camouflaged or hidden from view. Art galleries, for example, are mostly designed so that the light source does not detract from the artwork on the walls.
  • Take into consideration whether you want, say, task lighting or decorative lighting; task lighting or ambient lighting; or any combination. Certain tasks require a standard level of illumination for safety reasons.
  • Consider the reflective, directive and bouncing qualities of light. If you have mirrors behind your lighting, the strength of the bulb may not need to be as high. The color of the walls behind the lights will also affect the quality, since lighter colors will reflect and darker colors will absorb the light. (more…)

Get rid of Bacteria, Keep Your Cleaning Appliance Clean

Vacuum cleaners

Empty out the bag frequently. Do not ask it to do too much. Tugging can break cables in the flex. In time the motor loses some power: often it can be replaced.

Washing machine

A really labour-saving machine, especially if it is fully automatic. To get the best from it, follow the programmes for different fabrics carefully. If something is very dirty give it a separate pre-wash; rub collars and cuffs of shirts with detergent before machining. (more…)

Cleaning? Start from Wall

How to care for wallpaper

Use bread, squeezed into large pellets, or a clean india-rubber to remove dirty marks. Rub gently. Dab greasy marks with a pad slightly moistened with carbon tetrachloride or any proprietary brand of dry-cleaner. Wise to test first in a corner. Don’t rub or the pattern may come off. You can replace badly- damaged patterned paper by tearing an irregular patch (hold the paper pattern- side down) from a left-over piece. Paste over damaged area, carefully matching pattern. If paper is plain you will have to replace at least a complete length.

Muraweave : Muraweave, grass paper, bamboo wall coverings, etc., should be dusted with a vacuum cleaner attachment. For stains, use a good upholstery fabric dry-cleaner. Test first.

Washable: Washable doesn’t actually imply sluicing down or scrubbing. Wipe them with a damp sponge; don’t wet them more than necessary. Work up and down to avoid lifting at seams.

How to care for paintwork

Always rinse off all detergents and cleaners after use. Read instructions. Don’t use too strong a concentration of any cleaner, otherwise you will remove gloss, and paintwork will get dirtier more quickly in future. A little furniture polish helps protect window sills and areas that get heavy wear. (more…)

Keep Your Bath Room Shine

Baths, basins, bidets

Ideally these should be cleaned immediately after use before soap and grime have a chance to harden. If you do it then, no special cleaners other than hot soapy water are needed.

Prevent lime forming round waste hole, by making sure taps don’t drip.

Change the washer in time. To clean cast-iron or vitreous enamel or porcelain appliances, use mild abrasive paste, rinse off and dry. For difficult stains, rub with a little vinegar—but rinse away thoroughly as quickly as possible. (more…)

Surface Survival Cleaning Basics Part 2

Steel

Most radiators are made from steel, which rusts without proper protection. Radiators nowadays usually arrive with their protective primer and undercoats on — ready for the final decoration. If they get scratched it is important to rub down around the scratch, apply a rust inhibitor, then a primer, then undercoat(s) before redecorating.

Care: Depends on final finish. If gloss or emulsion paint (always oil-based), wash down to keep clean.

Cast iron

Hospital-type radiators, decorative

railings, outdoor furniture, Victorian spiral staircases, are usually made from cast iron. Like steel, cast iron rusts if not protected. As for steel, make sure it is properly primed and painted. Deal with any chips or scratches straight away. (more…)

Surface Survival Cleaning Basics Part 1

Decorative panels

Moulded plastic can also be used to make an outer skin to furniture or fittings : for example, some louvre doors consist of ft chipboard core with a plastic front.

Plastics laminates

Laminated plastics (for example Formica or Warerite) are now widely used for work-surfaces in kitchens, offices, bathrooms. These are made from layers of Kraft paper impregnated with phenolic resin bonded together at very high temperatures. As the top layer of paper can be printed any colour or pattern, this kind of plastic laminate can simulate any texture or material (see the section on Wood finishes overleaf). Melamine is a harder, clearer resin used to coat the surface of the bonded material. The thicker the Melamine layer, the higher will be the quality. (more…)

Care for Windows, Curtains and Blinds

Windows

Dust or wipe the frame first. Don’t clean in frosty weather when the glass is brittle and liable to break, or when a hot sun is shining on the windows. You can use virtually anything for cleaning windows from cool tea to crumpled newspapers. Faith and elbow grease can make them all work. Once you get the hang of them, those rubber-bladed wipers which professionals use are very quick.

Curtains

Home Sweet HomeCurtains should be hung as far as possible from the glass because condensation will shorten the life of a fabric. (more…)

How to Care Sisal and Mats

Care of sisal

A stain resistant finish provides a good barrier to liquid stains such as spilt coffee or Indian ink and prevents major accidents from causing permanent staining provided, of course, that spillage is mopped up as quickly as possible.

Regular care: If the carpet is reversible, reverse from time to time because the colours on the underside are always fresher. Hard, dry brushing will not harm the carpet but too much water will, and could cause shrinkage. (more…)

Care for Rugs and Carpets

How to care for rugs

Dhurries: Indian cotton dhurries should be dry-cleaned. When dealing with stains and spills, first remove the dhurry from any soft floor covering underneath, so there is no transference of dye.

Flokati: These rugs can be hand- washed in cold water using a mild detergent suitable for woollens. Rinse thoroughly. Dry naturally. Comb and brush pile.

Skin rugs: If you can clean off a stain without wetting the skin, it is safer. The skin of a goatskin rug, for example, may harden if it gets wet and for this reason professional cleaning is recommended. (more…)

The Cleaning Cupboard

Now contains more than the odd broom, ragged mop and yellow duster, though you still need these as well, but your armoury is extended ; these are the weapons you will need :

Vacuum cleaner : Upright or cylinder? Uprights have been demonstrated to be more efficient at picking up dog hairs from carpets. Cylinders are more convenient for hard floors because of their attachments. There is an attachment for more powerful cylinders that does do carpets well and, equally, uprights can come with as varied a range of bits. What is important is to get the most powerful suction possible. (more…)

Take Care Your Home Fabrics Part 4

Synthetic leathers

pvc fabrics : Until four or five years ago, most synthetic leather for upholstery (car seats especially) was made from PVC (polyvinyl chloride). PVC is a plastic fabric squeezed out in a solid sheet. Grain, pattern and colour are embossed and printed on to the top surface. Sometimes PVC is used on its own, more often now a thinner layer is bonded on to a knitted fabric. PVC is extremely tough and hard-wearing. (more…)

Take Care Your Home Fabrics Part 3

Nylon

A percentage of nylon is generally used to give additional toughness and abrasion- resistance to other fibers, wool especially.

The most important other use for nylon in upholstery is for stretch covers. These were invented for nylon, because it has a high degree of elasticity and is given a two-way stretch when knitted. It can be so knitted into plain or textured fabrics in one or more colours. It is eminently washable. The one snag is finding the ready-made cover to fit your chair in the colour/pattern you like. And there are problems in making up stretch fabrics at home.

Care: On its own, nylon can he washed. In a blend, follow instructions.

Acrylics

The Acrylic family of fibres has not been used for woven fabrics. Knitted fabrics may become more common as the rising prices of other fibres make acrylics comparatively cheaper. (more…)

Take Care Your Home Fabrics Part 2

Wool fiber

Wool is an ideal upholstery fibre — soft and comfortable. It takes dyes well, and normally does not fade noticeably. It is flameproof. The International Wool Mark is a guarantee of high quality, and the fabrics‘ which carry it are reliable.

Because of the great variety of yarns wool can be woven into many different fabrics. Tweedy fabrics, for instance, get their interesting textures through the yarns : knops (knots), boucles (or loops), slubs (irregular thick and thin yarn).

Weaves

Wool can be “flat-woven” so that it makes a close-textured, very strong repp (a practically indestructible corded cloth with the rib running across the width), or tweeds. Wool jacquard upholstery fabrics are also “flat” and usually smooth in texture. The designs can be large or small. (more…)

Take Care Your Home Fabrics Part 1

The best way to keep upholstered furniture looking good is to ask yourself the right questions before you buy anything. Silk upholstered chairs or pale suede sagbags have a role they can play for years in some homes, but not in those where they will come in contact with children, pets, mud, food, drink, grease or ball-point pens. The amount of wear you expect to inflict should be an indication of how tough and practical your furniture need be. This can vary not just from home to home, but room to room. A pretty Victorian chair could survive intact for years in the bedroom of a house where the daily onslaught in the living-room would destroy it in a matter of months. Meal-times are much more relaxed if you are not on edge in case something gets spilt : dining chairs need to be easier to keep clean than those in a study. Outdoor furniture should be able to survive outdoors without having to be brought in to shelter every time it rains. Obvious things when you think about them, but often forgotten at the moment of purchase.

General maintenance

Regular care is the most important rule. What is quite a quick and simple matter to remove each week becomes difficult, often impossible, if left to accumulate over months. (more…)

Choose quality Furniture? First Learn more from timber (continue…)

Traditional veneering

Veneering is an age-old craft, practised by some of the most famous furniture makers in their day. It means overlaying one wood with a very thin layer of another timber, for a decorative finish. Expensive and beautiful hardwoods such as rosewood and English walnut have seldom been used except as veneers.

Allied to veneering is inlaying. Here the top veneers are of contrasting woods designed to fit together in a pattern. (more…)

Choose quality Furniture? First Learn more from timber

Timber is classified as hardwood and softwood. Softwood, from conifers which grow fast, is comparatively cheap. It is used for constructing buildings and cladding. Formerly it was used only for cheap (nursery and kitchen) furniture, but now “pine” is fashionable and not so cheap. Hardwood has denser grain, matures more slowly and is therefore always more expensive. It is used for fine furniture and sometimes for parts of a building that show — the doors, the window frames and occasionally also the wall cladding.

Because both mass production methods and the prevalence of central heating call for a dimensionally stable material which solid timber is not, (more…)

Doing your own Finishing

Some furniture made from chipboard and a lot made from whitewood is sold for you to finish :

  • Clear polyurethane seal or lacquer. Paint on as directed. Usually three coats.Sand before each.
  • Coloured stain — in shades of brown or a range of bright colours. Paint on, three coats, sand before each.
  • Paint. Use emulsion paint as a primer and first coat on both chipboard and whitewood. To get a gloss finish, use gloss paint or a clear polyurethane seal.

Wax polish

The glowing patina of antique chairs and tables is not only the result of ageing but also of years of burnishing with beeswax. (more…)

See how much effect and care on Furniture

Oiled furniture

Teak and its substitutes, Afrormosia andIroko, are most often oiled. Rosewood, mahogany and oak can be oiled, but not ash or sycamore except where air and surroundings are ultra-clean.

Teeth oil : Is the up-to-date version with additives to speed drying and resist marking, but you can use a mixture of 25% linseed oil and 75% turpentine, which is cheaper though slightly harder to apply. Use on indoor or outdoor woodwork.

To apply, use a fluff-free oil-impregnated cloth and rub very sparingly well into the wood. Remove excess oil by buffing up with a second fluff-free cloth. Repeat the whole process even more sparingly next day. This treatment can be repeated when the wood begins to look dull. Do not over-oil or a sticky deposit will form (i.e., not more than twice a year). Oil can he cleaned off by rubbing the surface with fine wire wool dipped in a little white spirit. When dry, oil again sparingly. (more…)