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Kapok

Seed pods of the tropical silk-cotton tree (Ceiba pentandra) yield silky fibres with a downy texture. Although unsuitable for spinning, the fibres have excellent thermal and waterproof qualities and theyare used to fill bedding, cold-weather clothing, and life-jackets. After prolonged wear, especially in mattresses and quilts, the fibres break down and can release allergenic dust.

Jute

The long stems of the jute plant (Corchorus capsularis or C. olitorius) must be softened in water before the fibres can be beaten out. Too coarse for clothing, the fibres are processed with hemp to make hessian (burlap) and similar fabrics, for use in sacking, wall coverings, and as a backing for linoleum. Several crops are produced annually from managed plantations in the Ganges delta. Even so, demand exceeds production and other stem fibres are used as a substitute for jute. Some of these include ramie, kenaf, and roselle.

Hemp

Stems of the annual Cannabis sativa yield strong, coarse fibres used for cord, rope, matting, and cloth. Their use for these purposes has declined, and cultivation is strictly controlled or banned in many countries due to the plant’s other use as the source of cannabis.

Sisal

This Mexican agave species (Agave sisalana) is renowned for the strength of its long leaf fibres. They are extracted from the leaves once they reach lm (39in) in length, cleansed of pulp, and made into cord and matting.

Coir

The tough, coarse fibres from the husk of the fruit of the coconut palm are known as coir. Strong and hardwearing, the dark-brown fibres are used for matting and ropes. Most coir comes from the tropics.

Rayon

Rayon is a synthetic fibre made from cellulose derived from wood and plant pulp, and has a cotton-like texture. It tends to crease unless treated and it is often blended with natural fibres. Rayon illustrates the possibilities of using plant- based chemistry rather than petrochemicals to produce healthy and sustainable fibres and fabrics.

Feathers and down

Gathered, ideally, during the moulting season, feathers and down are the traditional fillings for bedding and cushions. They are washed and air cleaned without the use of chemicals that would destroy their heat-insulating properties. Down is softer, lighter, and warmer than feathers and eider down is the most expensive, followed by goose down. Mixed feather and down fillings vary in quality: the higher the proportion of feather, the bulkier the filling. Some people are allergic to feathers and down.

Skins and hairs

Natural, undyed leather is usually acceptable although some tanning processes contain formaldehyde. Horsehair comes chiefly from the mane or the tail and was the traditional material for stuffing furniture. It is hardwearing but increasingly scarce, and a good filling for mattresses or chairs. But it is expensive and some people are allergic to it. You should avoid all wild animal products or those involving cruelty — some would say that all animal products are cruel and should not be used.

Choosing fabrics and fibres

The choice of fabrics and fibres for the home can be confusing. But the hidden environmental costs of petrochemical-based synthetics make it clear that they should be avoided. Not all natural fibres are problem free, however, but on the whole they do come from abundant, diverse, and renewable sources, it is possible to produce them without pollution (although certain chemical treatments and pesticides are real problems), and processing them usually requires far less energy than is used for producing synthetics.

In the home, different fibres and fabrics are suited to different purposes, depending on such factors as durability, rot and flame resistance, strength, and cost. For durability, choose coarser, hardwearing fibres such as coir, sisal, and stain- resistant wool mixes for floor mats and carpets. Use felts for underlays and hessian (burlap) or canvas for wall finishes, linings, and screens. Linen, although expensive, is very long lasting; cottons and wools are the most versatile and diverse, with good thermal and “breathing” qualities. Silk — the finest of the fabrics — can be as soft as chiffon, as stiff as taffeta, or as brilliant as shantung.

Look for the international logos on labels to ensure that they are 100 per cent natural fibre. For colour, choose the soft tones of untreated fabrics or the subtle beauty of natural, nonchemical dyes.

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