9 The next task is to cut out the table top to the size 1218 mm x 598 mm. The width can be increased or decreased if desired, but the height must remain at 1218 mm to fit inside the cabinet, unless the shelf heights are also adjusted. Once the table top is cut out it is ready for laminating, which will bring the total size to 1220 mm x 600 mm.
10 The first surface to laminate will be the exposed side of the cupboard (you may find it easiest to have the cabinet laying on its opposite side for this).
Laminating with plastics should be done carefully as the materials are relatively expensive. Cut the laminate to about 2 mm oversize all the way round (this allows accurate trimming when the laminate is fully glued) using a laminate knife. This is run along a straight edge repeatedly (front and back) until a sufficiently deep groove is cut for the sheet to be easily snapped.
11 Cut a series of dowels or thin scrap timber strips to lay across the worktop to separate the laminate from the particle (chip) board while it is adjusted into place. Make sure both laminate and particle (chip) board are dust free, then evenly spread a thin layer of contact adhesive (using the supplied applicator) on the laminate and then on the particle (chip)
Board. Being a contact adhesive, it works best when it is just dry. Test this with the back of your hand in one or two spots. The adhesive will also look dull rather than wet.
When tack free, lay the previously cut dowels on the side about 300 mm apart, and then position the plastic laminate on the dowels. Get the laminate into the right position, then remove the dowels one by one from one end, gently pressing the laminate into position.
12 Once the sheet is down, ensure a good bond by hammering with a block of softwood over the entire surface. Pay special attention to the edges for a permanent bond. The edges can then be trimmed at a right angle to the face of the laminate and flush with the edge using a metal file.
The file must only be used pushing down on the laminate, never pulling up, as this may break the bond, which takes several days to reach its maximum strength. If you have access to one, a laminate trimmer or a router with a laminate trimming bit and pilot will save hours of work.
Repeat this with the other side if necessary. Also apply laminate to the exposed faces of the base unit. Where two faces of laminate meet, it is wise to file the joint at roughly 45° or 60° to remove the sharp edge. This will leave the typical dark edge line that is a feature of trimmed laminates. Once again, this can easily be done with a laminate trimming bit.
13 The shelf at 1295 mm from the top is also laminated on its top and front edge as it will undergo much harsh treatment (this shelf is the table extension onto which the sewing machine and any other bits and pieces are pushed) . Cut the front edge strip to size (wide in height but in this case accurate in length), and glue it into place. Trim to a flat surface with the top of the shelf.
The laminate for the shelf has to be cut to fit exactly to the back edge and the two sides. The front edge can hang over by 2 mm to allow trimming to size when it is glued. Glue the laminate as before and when in place finish it off at 45° to 60° to the edge with a file or a laminate trimmer.
14 The final laminating job is that of the table top and edges. This needs to have all four edges laminated first, and then the top laminated to finish over the edges. It is also finished at 45° to give a safe smooth working surface and edge.
15 The dressed (planed) 25 mm x 25 mm front softwood edgings are actually dressed (planed) to 19 mm x 19 mm and can be glued and nailed (or screwed) to the front edge of the particle (chip) board to give an attractive finished appearance. As they will be butting against your new laminate on the outside faces, precoat them with polyurethane to avoid accidentally getting any coating on the new laminate.
16 To attach the table leg to the table, screw it to the underside of the table with the butt hinge. It is important that the flap of the hinge faces towards the cupboard so that when the table is raised, the leg will automatically fold against the bottom of the table. If correctly cut, the top of the table will be at 760 mm, which is normally a comfortable height to work at.
17 Fix the table top to the left side of the cupboard with a continuous piano hinge, screwed first to the table edge, and then to the shelf.
18 Fix the self-adhesive doorstops to the top shelf to soften the contact between table top and cabinet when the unit is closed. Also fit the cam-type sash lock to the top batten/ cleat and the catch to the underside of the outer table edge. Check that it is in the correct position with the table up.
19 Fit lengths of the iron-on edge veneer to the front of the particle (chip) board shelves for a professional finish. This is applied with a household iron set on high — the adhesive on the edging will be melted. Finish the bond by running over the edging with a soft timber block while the adhesive is cooling. Then trim the edges flush with the top and bottom of each shelf.
20 The final major components needed to finish the unit are the doors. The right door is 524 mm wide x 1910 mm in height, and the left is 534 mm, with the leading edge rebated 10 mm to define the joint and to hide any slight irregularity that may result in the fitting.
21 Each door is fixed with three overlay hinges. These are semi-concealed and easy to install. The top and bottom hinges will need to be slightly let into the door to allow the hinge to sit flush with the top and bottom of the door. Cut an angled slot halfway down the door to accommodate the middle hinge. Each door will take one of one hand, and two of the other hand hinges.
22 Mark the position of the hinge screw holes on the door, and lightly predrill the screw hole. Similar predrilling should be done on the cabinet edge — this will ensure that the screws enter straight. It also helps to get the screws started through the laminate.
23 Fit the small magnetic catches to the top and bottom of the cabinet and fit the knobs to the doors. If desired, a power point can be added to the inside face of the cabinet above the laminated shelf.
This type of joint is used to join pieces of timber together side by side to increase the overall width —such as may be necessary for timber shelves. Dowels can only be used if the timber is thicker than 12 mm — any less, and there is not enough room to insert the dowels. Dowelling is a simple and concealed method of making a strong edge joint.
- Once the joint is planed true, square pencil lines across the edges to mark the position of the dowels. Separate the timber and use a gauge from the face side of each board, set to half the timber thickness, to mark at each pencil line. The point of intersection is the position of the dowel centre. 1:11 Bore holes for the dowels, standing at the end of the work to make sure the drill is perpendicular to the timber. Now slightly countersink the holes. Make sure that the dowel length is slightly shorter than the combined depth of the holes, with the ends bevelled. Finally, run a saw kerf along the dowel if not already grooved.
- To assemble the joint, put adhesive into the holes and glue onto the dowels, then knock the dowels into the holes in one of the timber pieces. Clean off any surplus adhesive and then add the other piece of timber and lightly cramp together.
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