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Cutting tiles Mark out and cut tiles to fit (see Skill class on marking and cutting tiles). The cut tiles can then be laid individually around the perimeter as needed.

Grouting Once all the tiles have been laid, allow the adhesive to set for 24 hours before grouting. The recommended grout is a cement-based material with additives to ensure a certain water resistance and ease of use. Grout is designed to fail should tiles expand with age; the idea behind this is that grout is easier and cheaper to replace than tiles. On floors, it is common to use the adhesive as the grouting medium as well because it is normally grey and won’t show dirt as easily as white or coloured grout.

Mix the grout in a clean bucket to a creamy consistency and let stand for about 15 minutes. Apply grout diagonally across the tile joints using a rubber squeegee. Working diagonally stops the grout being pulled out again by the back of the squeegee rubber. With practice, you will be able to fill the joints well, yet leave the surface of the tile with only minor grout stains. Stains can be gently wiped awaywith a moist sponge, washing frequently, until only the thinnest film is left. This will polish off after a further 24 hours.

If you prefer a uniform joint, run along the groutjoints with the end of a thin piece of rounded dowel and then again wipe down the surface. This will give a slightly recessed joint rather than the flush joint achieved using just the squeegee.

The newly tiled floor can be used 24 hours after grouting.

For soft biscuit tiles, it is easy to use a hand scriber to mark the tile and then to snap it over a nail. However, if using hard, fully vitrified monocottura or quarry tiles, you will need heavy-duty tile cutters (these can be hired).

To correctly mark out a tile for cutting, place a full tile (B) over the last full tile laid (A) , then place another tile (C) against the adjacentwall so that it overlaps tile B. Use the overlapping edge of tile C to mark the cutting line on tile B, leaving a gap of at least 5 mm to the wall to allow for expansion and contraction.

Place the tile in the tile cutter with the marked-out line along the central spine. When the cutting line is aligned with the wheel, scribe (the tungsten wheel marks out the line to be cut) , and then press the handle down to snap the tile along the scribed line.

Alternatively, for softer tiles: place the tile on a firm base and, using another tile or a straightedge, scribe the glazed surface of the tile with a tile cutter. Place a small nail under one end or a pencil along and under the scribed line, and firmly press the tile down. The tile will snap along the line. For thin tiles, use matchsticks and press the edges on both sides, or use a heavy-duty tile cutter to hold the tile firmly during breaking.

Fitting the tiles around obstacles need not cause problems. To cut a shape — for example a curved section for tiles that are to be fitted around tap holes — either make a template out of stiff card to suit the cutout (allow at least 5 mm clearance to the metalwork if fitting around tap holes), or use a profile gauge (a tool consisting of a row of sliding metal or plastic pins which, when pushed against an object, takes up its shape). In some cases it may be possible to move the obstacle, such as a basin, away from the wall in order to slide the tile behind it before marking out the profile.

If using a template, place the template on the tile and score with the scribing tile cutter. Cut the waste section away with a pair of tile pincers, removing small pieces at a time. Be sure to protect your eyes from any sharp fragments that may fly up. Also available are rod saws which consist of a wire charged with tungsten- carbide chips which can be used as a saw.

Smooth the cut edge of the tile with a tile file, or by rubbing the edge on some concrete or an abrasive stone. Once you have smoothed the edge of the cut tile, lay it in the correct position to avoid any mix-ups later.

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