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Archive for the ‘Oak’


Weekend Project, Building an Entertainment Centre part 2

3 Cut to length the shelf supports and drawer guides and fix in place. The shelf supports in this case were simply 12 mm x 12 mm cabinet timber strips cut to 350 mm (that is, 50 mm short of the front) and at 45°, and glued and nailed in place. An alternative would be to drill holes and use plastic or metal shelf supports instead. If the shelves were to be housed in the sides, the housings should be routed or cut out to a depth of 5 mm at this stage.

4 The drawer guides are 19 mm x 12 mm cabinet timber cut to 385 mm, and must be accurately glued and nailed (or screwed) to the sides. (You may prefer to fit the drawer guides when the drawers are ready, to double-check that the position is right.)

5 Mark and cut out the bottom shelf, 400 mm deep by 462 mm wide. When finished this will give a total width of 500 mm for the whole unit.

6 Mark and cut rear and front top members of cabinet from 75 mm x 25 mm and 100 mm x 25 mm cabinet timber. These are also 462 mm long. (more…)

Remodeling bathroom Floor & Storage plan

When setting out to remodel an existing bathroom take stock of your needs. What type of bathroom do you need; guest, family, children, compartmented? Then look at the room you presently have. Is there enough light? Are the walls sound, the floors permanent? Do you want to use the window, or would you rather cover it and use the space for closets? Then put your ideas down on paper.

How to make a floor plan

A good floor plan is just as important when remodeling a bathroom as it is when redoing any other room in the house. A detailed plan will indicate if you have enough room to move about and to store bathroom necessities conveniently plus room for the bathing, lavatory, and toilet fixtures which are the basic necessities. (more…)

Critical Stylish

Deciding upon a style of decoration that is both appropriate for the room and pleasing to the eye is the most important part of any interior design project. Careful consideration must be given to this critical aspect right from the beginning, as it is not something that can easily or cheaply be rectified halfway through the exercise. Though it can be tempting to take advantage of a bargain, it is generally a better idea to wait until you know roughly what look you are aiming for before you venture forth armed with a cheque book. While it’s easy to relegate an unsuitable item of clothing to the local charity shop, getting rid of an ill-chosen three-piece suite can prove rather more problematical. (more…)

Colour, Pattern & Texture

Colour has the most profound influence on the atmosphere of any room, but with a vast array of papers, paints and fabrics to choose from it is a subject that can seem bewilderingly complex. Reaction to colour, combinations of colour, patterns and texture deeply affect the way we feel.

Some make us feel secure, others make us initially optimistic but pall after a short time.There seem to be innumerable variations with few set rules. Some people have a natural eye for the fine gradations of colour, others can barely detect the difference between yellow and ochre. (more…)

Decorate Beautiful Eye Catch Point: Windows part 4

BLINDS

Blinds can be made of fabric, paper, nylon, wood or various other materials. Fabric blinds can be as decorative as curtains, but because the fabric itself is collected at the top rather than the sides of the window, it doesn’t get in the way of other furnishings or of activity in the room. Basic kits to make them are inexpensive to buy, easy to use and come with full instructions and fabric measuring guidelines. Plastic and wood Venetian slatted designs are particularly useful for kitchens and bathrooms as they are neat, uncluttered and practical to clean. And simple paper roller blinds can be used either on their own or as a supplement to curtains. (more…)

Decorate Beautiful Eye Catch Point: Windows part 2

Poles and Tracks

Flat aluminium or nylon tracks are designed specifically for traditional gathered curtains, and come fitted with a row of sliding runners into which you slot the curtain hooks. This is a good solution where there isn’t room for a pole — if you want to hang the curtain inside the window recess, for instance — or where a pole would look too dominant and unbalance the effect of the window.

Poles and rails — wooden, brass or wrought iron — give the window a more finished look. They come in a variety of diameters from about 1 cm (2 in) to about 6 cm (21 in), and can be plain or ornate, with extra decoration added by the finials, or end pieces. Because this sort of fixing makes the curtain hang a little way out from the wall, it is much better than a flat track for windows with a protruding surround. (more…)

Decorate Beautiful Eye Catch Point: Windows part 1

Windows are a natural focal point and, in modern houses particularly, they can take the place of a fireplace or chimney breast in giving architectural interest to a blank wall. Curtains, blinds and shutters come in all shapes and sizes, to suit all kinds of window, and some windows look good enough to need barely any dressing at all.

The two main elements to consider with a window are the amount of light it lets in and the amount of privacy it gives you.

Remember that the more you get of one, the less you’ll have of the other. Rooms where you spend a lot of time — living rooms and kitchens, for instance — will generally benefit from a good supply of light, and you probably won’t feel it necessary to keep the window heavily screened unless your house fronts a busy street. In bedrooms and bathrooms, on the other hand, light and privacy need to be carefully balanced. (more…)

Live House Colour and Pattern Part 2

MOOD CHANGERS

Yellows are stimulating and refreshing and will make the coldest or gloomiest room look sunny and cheerful, so they’re good for kitchens, work areas and daytime living rooms. If you find the brighter shades too much, try a pale primrose or a sandy ochre to give a softer effect.

Pinks are soft and restful — again, useful in a living-room colour scheme (especially if you want to create a more elegant, less everyday look) and their calming effect also makes them good for bedrooms. To avoid too sugary an effect, a yellowy pink such as peach is a good alternative. (more…)

How Much Timber Contributes to Your House

Although timber is a renewable, natural material we are using the resources at such an alarming rate that they may cease to be sustainable. The tropical rainforests are fast disappearing and, in the West, acid rain and the indiscriminate use of chemical fertilizers are damaging vast tracts of woodland. The practice, for commercial gain, of replacing slow-growing deciduous forests with the faster conifer plantations places increasing demands on the import of hardwood, and causes the degradation of the landscapes from which they come. And the demand is not only for construction and joinery timbers; we fell millions of trees annually for the production of woodpulp for paper and packaging materials.

We can help to conserve the dwindling supplies of timber by making better use of existingresources. We can reuse old construction timbers, purchase second-hand furniture, and recycle others; for interior use we can also use certain composite boards if they meet health and ecological criteria. Cork and linoleum are again popular and far healthier than their synthetic counterparts. (more…)

The Facts of Timber

Huge forests once covered much of the primeval world, making wood, branches, and leaves readily available to the hunter-gatherers as shelter for their temporary campsites. Frameworks of branches were covered with hides or cloth, palm fronds, or woven grass mats. Such shelters have not completely disappeared today and they are still used by the bushmen of the Kalahari and the Mbuti pygmies of central African forests. American Indians moved their tepees and the nomadic Kazakhs of Asia their felt-covered yurta to summer pastures.

With the development of village settlements, timber and organic materials were still the preferred building materials, from the circular kraal of central and southern Africa to the pole-and-thatch huts of Yucatan Mayas and the Maoris of New Zealand. In northern climates, dwellings were constructed with solid log walls, which were sometimes further insulated with earth to form the earth-covered lodges and hogans of the North American Indians. (more…)

Paints and varnishes continue…

Raw materials

Paint is a compound material consisting basically of a solid pigment, ground and suspended in a liquid medium such as water or oil. Pigments give opacity, colour, and consistency to paints. They are mainly of mineral origin, such as those quarried from the earth - the red, brownish, and yellow ochres, the brown umbers, and the red oxides. Brighter colours come from metal ores.

Paris green was prepared from acetate of copper and arsenic trioxide; it is highly poisonous and has long since been discontinued. White pigments come from zinc oxide, titanium oxide (the most opaque), and from antimony oxide, now that white lead has been banned.

Pure plant pigments, similar to those used in natural dyeing, were also used and are now being reintroduced. They are ideal for translucent colour washes or glazes on a white wall base. Some natural pigments tend to fade gradually in sunlight, endowing surfaces with a delicate coloured patina. (more…)

Re-Finishing Antique Pieces

People love to boast about the restoration or purchasing of antique pieces.

`My husband and I did it ourselves. Just about sanded our fingers to the bone.’

`I bought it for R5,00 from so-and-so’. Poor old so-and-so. The reparation of antique pieces is an industry on its own and construction damage is for experts only. Riempies are an exception. (The book ‘Cape Cottage Furnitureby John Kench has a very good section on the restoration of furniture).

Is it valuable?

This question is usually asked but sentiment has no price and if it is an heirloom it should be valued. All pieces containing stinkwood and yellowwood are valuable even in small measure. All oak pieces have a newly discovered value and the furniture of the twenties have become collector pieces. Those senseless copperplate ornamentation is now a costly recommendation. (more…)

Show Woods (Prestige Timber)

Stinkwood (Ocotea Bullata): This popular wood is now very scarce. Stinkwood is an excellent furniture timber that lends itself to beautiful finishing, sound jointing, and unlimited indoor life. It shows up brightly against light (like tiger’s eye). The older darker wood is almost unobtainable and the second growth and lighter coloured stinkwood has very little to recommend it in preference to blackwood.

Green stinkwood has an unpleasant smell, hence the name. Grain medium open.

Blackwood (Acacia Melanoxylon): This is not an indigenous wood but has been cultivated extensively in South Africa. Colour varies from black to light redbrown and furniture can appear piebald if the wood has not been selected carefully for colour matching. (more…)

Caring for Wood Part 2

TECHNIQUE 4

Surfaces around brass accessories

Glowing brass mounts are often our char’s pride. Please draw her attention to the wooden surface underneath the accessories, as woods with an open grain such as kiaat and oak also absorb the brass polish and removing this is almost impossible.

New furniture

Brass accessories can be removed and given a semi-permanent coat. The removal is easy and if the piece is not used often you will be pleased with this treatment. An alternative is to let the brass be, and allow it to look its age.

If a polished appearance is required, try to cut a matrix out of hard plastic that fits around the handle and which keeps the brass polish away from the woodwork. (more…)

Choose quality Furniture? First Learn more from timber

Timber is classified as hardwood and softwood. Softwood, from conifers which grow fast, is comparatively cheap. It is used for constructing buildings and cladding. Formerly it was used only for cheap (nursery and kitchen) furniture, but now “pine” is fashionable and not so cheap. Hardwood has denser grain, matures more slowly and is therefore always more expensive. It is used for fine furniture and sometimes for parts of a building that show — the doors, the window frames and occasionally also the wall cladding.

Because both mass production methods and the prevalence of central heating call for a dimensionally stable material which solid timber is not, (more…)

See how much effect and care on Furniture

Oiled furniture

Teak and its substitutes, Afrormosia andIroko, are most often oiled. Rosewood, mahogany and oak can be oiled, but not ash or sycamore except where air and surroundings are ultra-clean.

Teeth oil : Is the up-to-date version with additives to speed drying and resist marking, but you can use a mixture of 25% linseed oil and 75% turpentine, which is cheaper though slightly harder to apply. Use on indoor or outdoor woodwork.

To apply, use a fluff-free oil-impregnated cloth and rub very sparingly well into the wood. Remove excess oil by buffing up with a second fluff-free cloth. Repeat the whole process even more sparingly next day. This treatment can be repeated when the wood begins to look dull. Do not over-oil or a sticky deposit will form (i.e., not more than twice a year). Oil can he cleaned off by rubbing the surface with fine wire wool dipped in a little white spirit. When dry, oil again sparingly. (more…)