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Archive for the ‘Polish’


Washday Blues, Get the most Space and ease out of your Laundry, DIY Laundry Layout

For an area that is used several times a week and is always hard at work to keep you looking your best, the laundry is often sadly neglected. Pay it a little attention, too, and solve those washday blues at the same time.

To get the most space and ease out of your laundry, first consider its layout and be critical about its shortcomings. Many householders have no choice but to incorporate the laundry into the bathroom or kitchen, so the laundry basket, peg bag, sink unit, bucket, washing machine, dryer, detergents and all the rest of it has to be fitted in as unobtrusively as possible. Your laundry may even be positioned in a narrow passageway or back corner. Don’t despair — well-thoughtout planning doesn’t require a lot of space. (more…)

Home Improvement, DIY Tiling your floor or Walls part 3

Cutting tiles Mark out and cut tiles to fit (see Skill class on marking and cutting tiles). The cut tiles can then be laid individually around the perimeter as needed.

Grouting Once all the tiles have been laid, allow the adhesive to set for 24 hours before grouting. The recommended grout is a cement-based material with additives to ensure a certain water resistance and ease of use. Grout is designed to fail should tiles expand with age; the idea behind this is that grout is easier and cheaper to replace than tiles. On floors, it is common to use the adhesive as the grouting medium as well because it is normally grey and won’t show dirt as easily as white or coloured grout. (more…)

Bathroom Surface Values, Decorative Finishes continue…

Ceramic tiles

If ever a product has stood the test of time, it is the ceramic tile. Popular since the days of the Romans, ceramic tiles are still the most versatile of the bathroom surfaces. They can be used for both floors and walls and are available in a huge variety of colours, shapes and prices.

When choosing tiles, select ones that are in scale with your bathroom. If you choose a fancy shape, such as the ogee or Moorish designs, keep the colours simple: too much variety looks over-fussy. (more…)

Treasure Antique Clever Decor ways to Recycle

Just because a piece of furniture looks old and shabby, it does not mean it has to stay this way or be discarded.

Old or antique furniture was usually made from quality timber and had a craftsman- like finish. Furniture makers of yesteryear had time to create well-designed pieces that were both functional and very stylish. These qualities alone make furniture recycling a worthwhile exercise. (more…)

Storage Cabinet French Polishing

French polishing storage cabinet is a skilled craft but, using proprietary solutions, it can be tackled by anyone with patience for that special piece of storage cabinet that is beau but not faux.

Step by Step

1 Remove broken latch and strip wood veneer off storage cabinet top panels.

2 Rub down storage cabinet timber with methylated spirits using steel wool to remove lacquer. (more…)

Kitchen and Family Room Improvement, Cork Tile Floor continue…

20 Work a maximum of 1 m at a time. If you do more, you run the risk of the adhesive skinning, and not adhering properly to the tiles.

21 Lay the first tile straight down without sliding it in place. Take great care in aligning it properly. All tiles should be laid without sliding them in place.

22 Lay the following tiles in the form of triangles towards the corner, butting each one against its neighbours.

23 When you reach a wall, tiles will need to be cut. (more…)

Kitchen and Family Room Improvement, Cork Tile Floor

One of the most successful types of floorcovering for a kitchen is cork tiling. The colour of cork is fairly neutral and these days can be natural, stained, or dyed to various colours. The finish applied is easy to care for and the job can be done by any handyperson.

Our project kitchen and family room is a large area, just under 50 sq. m. The original floor is structural plywood. There are three steps between the kitchen and family areas, which will be edged with light-coloured seasoned hardwood as a wearing edge. (more…)

Step by step, how to build Leadlight Porthole continue…

17 Cut off the two damaged ends of the lead, and then cut sufficient length off the wider lead to place around the semicircle defined by the cut panel. The lead is cut using a sharp lead knife, in a rocking motion. The other half of the perimeter is the last piece in the jigsaw to be fitted at the end.

18 Select the piece of glass for the starting point. On our circle it can just about be anywhere on the bottom perimeter, but where successive pieces can be installed easily. The best place would be in the middle. (more…)

Bath and Basin, Taps, Floor Tiles, Windows, Bathroom Furnishing

Bathroom

Why is cleaning the bathroom always the worst? The stains are the pits — once they are there they stay, so don’t let them. Use these concoctions to get rid of them, clean regularly and keep the stains away.

Toilet bowl

Most old toilet bowls have stubborn stains that, regardless of how may litres of bleach you’ve poured in there, still remain. With a gas mask securely tied over your mouth and nose and industrial strength gloves on your hands, mix 5 cups of bicarbonate of soda with 1 cup of caustic soda. Sprinkle the mixture in the bowl and leave for half an hour. Give it a quick scrub with the toilet brush (you DO own a toilet brush, right?) and flush. (more…)

(Carpets, Walls, Floor Candle wax and Paint) Home Improvement Made Easy

Carpets

Vacuum regularly and get into those corners. If you entertain you would have had to get rid of some nasty stains; if you entertain heavily, you may have had to get rid of some more severe markings, and smells.

Generally, always work from outside in and never brush or rub too vigorously as you may damage the fibres. When using some of the stronger solutions, first test it on an inconspicuous part of the carpet. (more…)

Vital Sense Home Scent

Due to the environment many of us live in, the sense of smell is becoming increasingly less important. The full capacities of this once vital sense are being subconsciously subordinated to the other senses of hearing and seeing. In other species the sense of smell is much more highly developed as, indeed, it is in those human societies today that remain in close contact with nature and depend on this sense, in conjunction with all the others, for day-to-day survival.

Denying your senses

Your nose is an extremely sensitive sensory organ and your sense of smell is many thousands of times more acute than your sense of taste. Because of this, you, like everybody else, have probably experienced a sudden and vivid association evoked by a particular smell, perhaps reminding you of a person, place, or event often from long ago and until that moment quite forgotten.

But air pollution, both indoors and outdoors, dulls and damages the sense of smell. By reacting badly to an unpleasant smell your body is warning you that you should not be breathing that air. But if you have no choice, as many of us don’t, then the warning goes unheeded. But you do pay a price. (more…)

Knowing your own House space continue…

Creating spaces in the home

Before making any changes, you and all the members of your household need to understand how you react to the present arrangement of spaces in your home and how you want them modified, and why. You have to know what you are aiming for even if the achievement of it seems difficult or a long way in the future.

The simplest change — introducing natural colours and scents, more plants, a water filter, recycling paper — made in response to these feelings is an important first step. It gives you confidence to go on and gradually make more ambitious changes. Use your own ideas and, as you become more health and environment aware, one thing will lead to another. Doing things yourself, within reason, is much more creative and satisfying (and also far less expensive) than always buying something ready made or employing professionals. It depends on the level of the change and your skill — be sensible and don’t try to do too much at once. Always bear safety in mind and avoid hazardous jobs, such as electrical work, that need a qualified person. (more…)

Traditional focal points

Doors and windows are obvious focal points in the home. They are vulnerable because while they are welcoming to friends they are also meant, traditionally, to deter the entry of unwanted guests, evil spirits, and harmful energies. The threshold is the dividing line between the external, frightening world and the inner sanctuary of the home. Inearlier times, the doorstep was protected against evil with cast iron, knives, or crossed scissors buried beneath the threshold. Well into the 20th century it was common to see iron horseshoes nailed to the lintel and front doors as good luck symbols. Step charms and “tangled thread” patterns were common in Scotland and are still used in India where doors, doorposts, knockers, and hinges bear protective patterns; in China, the front door is painted red as a sign of happiness. Orientation of front doors to face the rising sun is of ancient origin, as are solar symbols. Windows were protected with various protective designs, and shutters often had heart- shaped cut-outs as representations of Mother Earth. Glass balls and mirrors hung in the windows were thought to ward off witches and evil spirits. (more…)

Woodwork Inside The House Part 2

Wooden pelmits are more obvious and more care should betaken with them. The surface is never touched but it is too high to treat with furniture polish.

Treatment with a penetrating polywax sealer is recommended.

Treat periodically with WOODOC Penetrating Furniture Wax.

Inner doors: Most inner doors are painted but doors of reception rooms are sometimes made of untreated wood. These door surfaces are not handled much but the surfaces around the door knob are touched often. The finish tends to wear and become dirty as hands are sweaty and sometimes greasy. In addition the lock edges of the door are often bumped into when furniture, stepladders, etc. are carried past the door. The door has actually two surfaces with different needs. (more…)

Woodwork Inside The House Part 1

Enemies attacking exterior woodwork are reasonably under control inside the house. Extreme temperatures and ultraviolet rays are limited and the moisture content of the interior atmosphere is also not subject to extremes.

The home owner can therefore use more permanent finishes and expect it to remain attractive for ten years and even longer.

The inside of windows and outer doors

Adorning the wood by strenghtening the grain pattern is the starting point. If new woodwork has been treated by immersion as described in the section on exterior woodwork, further treatment will now depend on the primer which is already there. Enquire about this and make sure the paint subcontractor understands you. It could already be too late for quality sanding of the woodwork and you must make quite sure about this too.

Except for the above you can follow the paint contractor’s advice. (more…)

Re-Finishing Antique Pieces

People love to boast about the restoration or purchasing of antique pieces.

`My husband and I did it ourselves. Just about sanded our fingers to the bone.’

`I bought it for R5,00 from so-and-so’. Poor old so-and-so. The reparation of antique pieces is an industry on its own and construction damage is for experts only. Riempies are an exception. (The book ‘Cape Cottage Furnitureby John Kench has a very good section on the restoration of furniture).

Is it valuable?

This question is usually asked but sentiment has no price and if it is an heirloom it should be valued. All pieces containing stinkwood and yellowwood are valuable even in small measure. All oak pieces have a newly discovered value and the furniture of the twenties have become collector pieces. Those senseless copperplate ornamentation is now a costly recommendation. (more…)

Woodwork Exposed to the Elements continue…

One condition for the successful use of the agents recommended in the technical section is that the wood must be clean, free from varnish or other finishes that form a surface layer, and such layers must be removed completely. If the previous application was a preservative with an oil base, the recommended agents can be applied without any preparation. Loose dust must be removed, preferably by wiping the woodwork with a cloth dipped in mineral turpentine or by using a steel brush.

Wood that has been smoothed before application appears better and is also more durable. This should be done before the very first application, and you need not repeat it before a subsequent application. Remember that external finishes and sandpaper are bad friends as most of these finishes cling to the paper.

If you consider an elaborate front door it should be well sanded before the first treatment. Such doors must not be stored on the building site and the pre-treatment should be discussed with the building supervisor or the contractor. (more…)

Get Your Lovely Furniture Polished

When discussing polish there will be three types from the home-owner’s point of view.

Multipurpose polish: If it is recommended for wood, leather, plastic, etc. this polish will not give the protective layer you are looking for. It may also damage a patina or previous finish.

With silicon: The silicon gives good resistance to cold water damage and can be recommended for furniture with a permanent finish like e.g. polyurethane. If it is used on raw wood no permanent finish will ever again stick to the surface. Consider this step very carefully — especially on blackwood and stinkwood leaves — should you later wish to change the finish. (more…)

Caring for Wood Part 4

TECHNIQUE 10

Furniture polish after oil treatment on dark wood and yellowwood

Furniture polish can be applied direct on a previous oil finish or on a fresh surface prepared with sandpaper or steelwool. If the leaf surface has not been renovated the polish can be applied with grade 000 steelwool. The steelwool is dipped into the polish and sanded strictly along the grain. For dark woods the polish slurry is worked into the grain with the palm of your hand after it has become half dry. This is not required for yellowwood. Wipe off the excess slurry with cheesecloth and shine with a soft cloth. Follow up with another application of polish, leave to dry and shine until you have the gloss of your preference. Polish as often as needed. With a good polish the periods in between applications grow longer. A surface that is not much in use will not need polish more than once a month. (more…)

Caring for Wood Part 3

TECHNIQUE 6

  1. Application of polyurethane (other artificial finishes are not recommended for home use)
  2. Decide whether you would like a matt or gloss finish and buy the right kind.
  3. Apply on a dustfree surface.
  4. Stir the mixture thoroughly, especially the matt one.
  5. Wait until the bubbles on top disappear.
  6. Apply with a new first grade brush along the grain. (Do not go back on spots that are half dry.) After each immersion the brush must be pulled against the edge of the tin to get rid of bubbles.
  7. Allow to dry in the same dustfree atmosphere.
  • A single coat for 24 hours.
  • For more coats two hours per coat is sufficient on a hot day, but refer to instructions on the tin.
  • There will be small protruding particles where dust has fallen or where a bubble has lodged. Wipe lightly over the entire surface with steelwool or grade 600 sandpaper. Apply furniture wax or apply the next coat, according to your choice.
  • Where the gloss is not acceptable, it can be dimmed with steelwool. (more…)